Sento（せんと,銭湯) in Japan and daejungmokyoktang(대중목욕탕, 大衆沐浴湯) in Korea

A Sento Entrance(銭湯の入口）

A Daejungmokoktang Entrance(대중목욕탕 입구)

　One of the attractive things that Osaka has for travelers is that things are much cheaper from dishes to accommodations than Tokyo and many of the major cities in Japan. For example, I spent around $130 staying in a small hotel located near Dobutsuenmae Station (動物園前駅) for 9 days. The hotel was nice. I had my own tatami floored room with a small TV and fridge. Everything was clean and clerks were kind. One problem was that it has only one shower room just on the first floor. At first, I was let down because I wanted to warm my body with hot water shower after a long walk of the day. But, fortunately, it was offering a coupon for a sento near the hotel each day for free to make up for lack of shower facility. I was happy to hear that I was able to soak my frozen body into the hot bath in the sento. Moreover, I hadn't been to an onsen(hot spring) or sento ever in Japan.

　The sento was quite similar to the daejungmokyoktang(대중목욕탕) that I used to go in Korea except for a few things like the noren(a kind of short curtains at the gate of the shop that shows its identity) at the gate and the vending machine that sells entrance tickets. Getting into the locker hall, the atmosphere was a bit like the one in the daejungmokyoktang that I used to go to with my dad  30 years ago. There was a small old refrigerator that had some beverages and milks for sale, which is also typical even in daejungmokyoktangs in Korea. Enjoying the sento every night after tour, I felt nostalgic, thinking it was weird to see a bit of the past of Korea. But night after night, I could see a few different things. Here are the differences that I recognized between the sento I went to in Japan and general daejungmokyoktangs in Korea.

　First, it was quite calm in the sento compared to a daejungmokyoktang. Even though there were some people talking quietly in the bath, generally people were silent. It seemed that people were even careful not to make any kind of noise when getting out of the bath. Koreans are not as careful as the people in the sento not to make noise. That kind of carefulness of the Japanese in the sento might be common in almost all public places. I could even take a short nap in the long subway trip in Japan, partly thanks to the calmness of the passengers.

　Second, the temperatures of the baths in the sento were quite higher than the ones in daejungmokyoktangs. I couldn't stay in the bath long. Getting out of the bath, I found my skin reddened.

　Third, the wall separating the men's room and women's room were open on the upper side that I could hear the noises over the women's side. In Korea, they are completely separated that it is impossible to hear anything from the other side. The first night I went there, I was quite nervous and uncomfortable even seeing the opened side of the wall.

　Fourth, it might represent how Koreans and Japanese have different points of views for their own bodies in public places and it is that many Japanese in the sento came into the bathroom hiding their important part with a towel or sometimes their hand. But the proportion of the people doing so was less than 50%, I guess. Young people tended to hide their important part while middle aged or elderly people came in like typical Koreans. Watching it, I could understand why the people in the public bath talking in Japanese drama scenes are wearing a towel on their head. The towel was for hiding their important part in getting out of the bath.

　The last thing was the most surprising experience, which might show the biggest difference between Korean culture and Japanese one. The second night I went to the sento, after taking a shower briefly, I jumped to the bath because I had been frozen with the cold and windy weather that day. Looking around the sento, I happened to see an old clerk who was cleaning the locker hall over the window. Because of the misty window, I barely could see the clerk. After cleaning the locker hall, the person came in to sort out baskets and other things. The person was an old grandma. She even said hello to a few customers who were scrubbing their stomach while cleaning the bathroom. I couldn't help staying in the bath until she went out. I had heard that kind of episode, but it was the most exotic experience ever I've had in Japan. In Korea, as men's rooms and women's rooms are separated completely, it is absolutely not allowed for a woman over 4 years old to get to the men's room and vice versa.

  I was asked whether I could figure out whether a passerby was Korean, Japanese, or Chinese without listening to him or her talking by an American friend who lives in Osaka while walking down a market. I said, " Yes, generally." I think I can discern them because each group has different styles, gestures, preferences and so on. The first day in the sento, I could feel slightly that people were watching me figuring out that I am a foreigner. I was doing things as I do in  daejungmokyoktangs in Korea. I was making more noise. I walked around exposing my important part. But the last night I went there, I felt I was assimilating myself to the rules of the sento seeing myself being calmer and not embarrassed with the old lady walking around me. It was a great chance to feel how different and similar Korean and Japanese culture are.

'Sado(사도,思悼)', Between 'Hyo(효,孝)' and 'Oedipus Complex'

 For most Koreans, "Chuseok' means family. I guess many Koreans agree that "Chuseok' could be the time to fulfil family responsibilities that have been put off with an excuse of their busy modern life. I was quite negligent for my family responsibilites for the whole Chuseok. I filled the abundant time with watching a couple of latest Korean movies on TV and reading books at home alone. Until the last afternoon of Chuseok, I didn't do anything special. I started to feel guilty after I got a call from mom for dinner. I decided to go to the movies with her. Mom and I both like histories, and we chose 'Sado(사도,思悼).‘I had wanted to watch and compare the new movie with other ones about Prince Sado.

As a matter of fact, there have been so many movies, novels, and TV dramas about King Youngjo(영조,英祖), Prince Sado(사도세자,思悼世子), and Jeongjo(정조,正祖) for decades. The first work I got to know about them was a novel called "Eternal Empire(영원한 제국). I read it four times. It was made to a movie. The core of the novel is existence of Geumdungjisa(금등지사,金縢之詞).‘Geumdungjisa' is a confessing script written by King Youngjo who regreted killing his son, Prince Sado. The main storyline of 'Eternal Empire' is about bloody conflict between King Jeongjo who tries to reveal 'Geumdungjisa' to strengthen his royal authority and the strongeset opposition party,Noron(노론,老論), which strives to pull King Jeongjo down from the throne.In the novel, each character is described as Machiavellic political being like to kill or die. In the movie with the same title, such aspects got more emphasized with the intention to make the story more thrilling. Many of the works released afterwards didn't get over the stance "Eternal Empire" revealed.

However, in 'Sado‘, the three are pictured in a unique perspective which has been seen rarely. They are depicted as a family mingled and destroyed with tragedy. King Youngjo disliked his son Prince Sado, but treasured his grandson King Jeongjo. After all, he killed Sado, and made his grandson succeed the throne. During the Choseon era when Hyo(효,孝) which basically means respect for parents and ancestors, was valued as the priority, there was no more tragic story than this. The tragedy among the three is so complicated that it can't be explained with a few factors, but the movie shows a few common things ordinary Koreans can easily understand how it happened. One thing is 'studying' that Korean parents have been historically passionate with for their kids and family. "Studying" has been the prime medium that builds up the relationship between children and their parents in Korea. Kids with good grades are treasure in the family. On the other hand, kids who don't have interested in studying are parents' main concern. Royal Families were not exception in Choseon era. Prince Sado couldn't keep up with his father's high expections and had more interest in other things like art, martial arts and etc. However, King Youngjo kept pushing his son to study harder to make himself and his family be more respected by his subordinates. He was not confident for his throne because his mother was from the low class and he was suspected that he had poisoned and killed his elder brother, King Gyeongjong, before succeeding the throne. He wanted to justify his throne through making realistic achievement and showing academic superiority against his subordinates. He wanted his son, Prince Sado to do the same way like he did. King Youngjo felt pathetic with his son, and and Prince Sado felt bored and scared with his father. King Jeongjo,on the other hand, did the opposite from his father,Prince Sado. He studied hard and obeyed his grandfather even after he died. King Yeongjo loved his grandson, who was studying hard. He loved him more because Jeongjo was his grandson, which was the one of the main factors that their relationship was quite smooth from the start to the end. Friction over studying, father's sterness to his son, and Grandfather's generosity to his grandson, these are common things that are seen in most Korean families even now.

Hyo(효,孝) which based on obedience and respectfulness to parents was the foremost value in Choseon era. From the perspective of Hyo, Prince sado was a wicked son whereas King Jeongjo was a faithful grandson. The discord among the three persons who were at the top of political power turned into a Oedipudic tragedy. By Freud, father and his son are competitors as well as coordinators. Their relationship is completely unbalanced from the start. Father has absolute power and authority and his son barely can survive with his parents protection. Recognizing the situation, the son identify himself with his father and fulfil his royalty. However, as time goes by, father gets older and weaker and his son becomes bigger and stronger. If the father failed to get his son to be his copy cat, tension and friction are unavoidable. Unable to meet his father's expectation, Prince Sado starts to draw a different picture, and the two become political enemies to each other. In a kingdom like Choseon, ultimate power can't be divided. After all, Prince Sado gets removed. Watching how his father was eradicated directly, King Jeongjo who had revealed his full loyalty and honesty to his grandfather(or fufilling his hyo(효)) becomes the next king instead of his father Prince Sado.

"Sado" has its uniqueness in the point that it pictures psychology and relationship of the historical characters in a more detailed manner than the ones released before. Director Lee Joon-Ik's effort to draw historical people in a more existential perspective trimming off transmitted fantasy and stereotypes over them, gave fresh stimuli and inspiration to me. I'd say 'Sado' as the genuine movie for Korean fathers and their sons.

'사도(思悼)', '효(孝)'와 '오이디푸스 컴플렉스(Oedipus Complex)'사이

 보통 한국인들에게 '추석'은  즐거운 연휴만을 의미하지 않는다. (많은 한국인들이 공감하겠지만) '추석'은  아버지, 어머니로서든  아들, 딸이로서든 평소에 미뤄둔 '가족으로서'의 의무를 짧고 굵게 해치우는 시간이다(특히나 평소에 가족에게 소홀했다는 죄의식에 시달린 사람들에게).연휴 4일을  거의 집에서 '특선영화' 시청과 '독서'로  채웠다(혼자).  연휴 마지막날까지 식구들과 특별히 아무 것도 안했다. 괜히 엄마한테 미안하고 찔렸다. 엄마와 영화를 보기로 했다. 둘 다 역사물을 좋아하니 선택한 영화는 '사도.'  '영조','사도세자','정조'를 다룬 영화,드라마, 책은  지난 몇 십년간  꾸준히 나왔다.  내가 처음 접한 작품(고등학교 때였던 것 같다)은 '영원한 제국'이라는 소설이었다.  동명 영화가  만들어 지기도 했다. 4번 정도 읽었다.  '영원한 제국'의 스토리 흐름의 핵심은 '금등지사'다. '금등지사'는 영조가 죽은 사도세자를 기리며 (사관들을 피해) 비밀리에 썼다라고 하는 일종의 고백서다.'영원한 제국'은  '금등지사'를 세상에 내놓아 왕권을 강화하고자 하는 정조와 그 반대파 노론간의 피말리는 첩보전이 주 내용이다. 소설에서 그려지는 정조는  상대가 죽어야 내가 사는 살얼음같은 정치판의 보스, 그 나머지 등장인물도  마키아벨리적 인간로서 그려질 뿐이다.  영화에서는 그러한 모습이 더 강화되어 그려졌다. 그래서 재미가 없었다. 내 기억에 영화는  책 만큼의 인기를 끌지 못한 것으로 알고 있다.  스릴러 넘치는 첩보 스릴러 소설이 정치영화가 되어버렸다. 그  이후에 나온 많은 작품들도 그렇게 다른 시각을 보여주지는 못했다. 그러나 '사도'에서의 세 사람은  전혀 다른 각도로 관찰된다.  정치적 인물로서가 아닌 가족으로서의  세 사람의 관계를 그려 나간다. 영조는 아들인 사도세자는  미워하나 손자인 정조는 이뻐했다. 영조는 사도세자를 죽이고 정조를 왕위에 앉혔다. '효(孝)'를 제1의 가치로 여기는 조선에서 이만큼 비극적인 이야기는 없었다. 이 비극엔  한국인이라면 누구나 공감할 수 있는 몇 가지 요소가 개입되어 있다. 하나는  '공부'고 다른 하나는 '아버지의 아들에 대한 엄격함과 손자에 대한 너그러움'이다. 한국에서 공부는 지금이나 옛날이나 부모가 자식간의 관계에서 핵심적 매개체다. 공부 잘하는 자식은 대접받는다. 공부 안하는 자식은 근심거리다.  왕가라 해서 예외가 아니었다.  '사도세자'는  아버지 영조가 바라는 만큼 공부를  잘하지도 못했고, 열심히 하지도 않았다. 무수리 출신의 어머니를 둔 만큼  자신의 출신배경에  대한 열등감이 강했고,   형 경종을 독살해서 왕이 되었다는 음모론에 재위 내내 시달릴 만큼  정통성이 약했던 영조는 사도세자에게 많은 기대를 걸었다. 한국의 자수성가한 한국의 아버지들이 많이 보이는 태도였다. '사도세자'는 그런 높은 기대에 부응할 수 없었다. 영조는 '사도세자'가 한심했고,  사도세자는 아버지가 답답하고 무서웠다. 영조와 그의 손자 정조와의 관계는 180도 달랐다. 정조는 자신의 아버지와 달리 공부에 힘썼으며 할아버지 영조에게 끝까지 순종적인 모습을 보였다. 할아버지 영조도 아들 '사도세자'와 달리 학문에 힘쓰는 '정조'가 기특했다. 손자라서 더 이뻤다.  '공부'라는 것을 시작으로 전개되는 삼부자간의 갈등, 아버지의 아들에 대한 엄격함과, 할아버지의 손자에 대한 자애로움은  왕가라해서 예외가 아니었다. '효(孝)'라는 조선시대의 사회적 가치체계 기준에서  '사도세자'는  몹쓸 아들이었고, 정조는 효심깊은 손자였다. 권력의 정점에 있었던 세 인물의  갈등관계는 '오이디푸스'적 비극으로 치닫는다. 프로이드의 '오이디푸스 컴플렉스'에서 아버지와 아들은 경쟁자이다. 하지만 아버지는 절대적 힘과 권위를 가지고 있고, 아들은 연약한 자로서 부모에게 의지해야 근근히 생명을 이어나갈 수 있는 존재이다.  이 현실을 깨달은 아들은 아버지와 자신을 동일시하고 아버지에게 충성을 다한다. 하지만 그건 어디까지나 아버지와 내가 절대적 힘의 불균형이 있을 때 뿐이다.  세월이 지나면 아버지는 늙고 쇠약해지며, 아들은  크고 튼튼해진다. 아들이 아버지와 자신을 동일시 하는 데 실패하는 한 긴장과 갈등은 피할 수 없게 된다.  영조의 기대에 부응할 수 없었던 사도세자는 영조와 다른 그림을 그려나가기 시작하고, 둘은 어느 새 아버지와 아들이 아닌 정치적 적이 되어버린다. 왕조국가에서 권력이 둘로 나뉠 수 없는 법,  사도세자는 제거된다.  한편, 아버지의 비참한 말로를  두 눈으로 직접본  아들  '정조'는  철저한 충성심과 성실함을 보이며  할아버지에게 효를 다함으로써 살아남아 왕이 될 수 있었다. '사도'는 '역사'가 아닌 '인물'의 볼수 있게해주는  영화라는 점에게 기존에  나왔던 그들에 관한 작품들과'와  다른 시각이 느껴졌다.  '명랑'이라는 영화에서도 이순신을  '성웅'으로 그리기 보단, 극단적 상황에서 고뇌하는 한 명의 탁월한 '사람'으로  풀어나가는 부분이 인상적이었는데, '사도'라는 영화도 가족이면서도 서로 권력을 다퉈야 했던 인물간의 심리와 관계에 초점을 맞췄다는 점에서 비슷한 맥락이 느껴진다. 역사적 인물들에 대한 환상과 고정관념들을 벗겨내고,  실존적 관점에서 그들의 생각과 삶을  그리려는  노력은  역사적  사실이 아닌 진실에 더 가까이 가고  관객들의 삶에 더 많은 영감을  줄 수 있다는  점에서 신선하다.  '사도' ,  가족에 대한 낭만을 벗겨낸 한국의 아버지와 아들의 영화다.

My Grandma's Memory over Japanese Colonization

 I had bought the flight ticket to Osaka and went to the airport. But I didn't take the flight and just came back home. There were many reasons. Anyway, thanks to it, I got plenty of time to do what I didn't use to do. Late afternoon when I just arrived home, my mom called me to check on my safety over the cancelled trip. Getting to know I was not in Osaka, she asked me to drive her and her mother(my grandma) to a seafood market in the West Sea near their town.  My grandmother had been quite sick, and barely recovered. Her appetite for sea food came back. We went to the market. After shopping, we got into a seafood restaurant and ate a lot of sashimi. Interestingly, the things my grandmother talked about while enjoying the sashimi was the stories when she was quite young, Japanese Colonization and Korean War. Now she is 91 years old and it was amazing that she had such vivid and abundant memory over her childhood. Her memory of Japanese Colonization period was especially surprising. Her stance towards Japan and its people  during that time was both positive and negative. Here are some stories she mentioned.

 Story 1: She was not allowed to speak Korean at school. Almost all teachers were Japanese and they were wearing  long swords all the time. She said it was quite scary to face them. Students  were punished  when they were caught speaking Korean. Mild punishments were like cleaning the toilets and so on and tough ones were corporal punishments.

 Story 2: She was talented in singing and dancing. Some rich Japanese neighbors were quite supportive for her. She said Japanese don't care much about family lineage like Koreans and love to support talented people.  She said she got lots of direct and indirect support from them.

Story 3:  She confessed that she still feels scared retrieving the brutal scenes she saw right after Japan surrendered in August in 1945. After the war, Japanese armies had to go back to the Islands. Going back, they killed thousands of people on the way. She went to the downtown and felt frightened with nasty smell of corpses slaughtered by Japanese soldiers and police officers. She mentioned an episode she heard that a man was walking for a few seconds with his head cut off by a military officer riding a horse.

Story 4: It was probably 1991 or 1992, when she got a chance to visit Japan for tour with her friends. She happened to visit a Japanese family and she was amazed with the diligence of the kids of the family. They had to share a quite big portion of housework and took it for granted, which  was a bit unusual in urban Korean families.

 Typical Koreans stances toward Japan have been both positive and negative like my grandmother. They admire Japan for its advanced position as the first non-Western nation succeeding in becoming a modern one. On the other hand, they feel suspicious of its intention behind its actions. From the Western point of view, it could look overly reactive for Koreans to criticize Japanese government and politicians trying to change its constitutions that Japan is able to build normal military forces and engage in foreign affairs more actively. Koreans have quite mixed feelings toward China, too. They feel happy with the truth that Korea has the most attractive market right next to it(About a quarter of exports from South Korea is for China), but cautious that China may overwhelm Korea soon and exert dominant influences over it.

   After Korean War, there has not been a big conflicts in Far East Asia and its has been more than a half century. That is a good thing. But when it comes to the level of the level of cultural exchange, it didn't seem to be that dynamic. It is quite recent that K-pops and K-dramas got Chinese audiences' attention. Until I was in middle and high school( until 1990s ), it was not illegal for private companies or institutions to import Japanese pop culture products or services.

  My concern is that how the four nations ( including North Korea) can maintain the peace and build up reconciliation and prosperity breaking historically toughly rooted distrust among them. Unfortunately, the situation seems to be getting worse. More mass destruction weapons have been piled up around and the tension among them has been raised. Misconception and distrust among them have worsened the situation. It appears that we've known each other long time, but haven't known each other well. It's time to put a portion of energy we have put to study and know the Western Civilization to our own things we have ignored quite a while.